Carnaval!

This past weekend I spent celebrating a time honored tradition: La celebracion de Carnaval!

Although Carnaval is loosely based on religious practices, it has come to symbolize something far grander: the coolest party of all time.

Carnaval is an eight day long celebration before lent begins and I have been told that Veracruz is the place to be during that time.

I first learned of Carnaval from my bus driver Nestor, when I arrived in Veracruz two Sunday's ago. The city was already making preparations for the fiesta, as rows of bleachers were being assembled along the boardwalk for the parade and businesses anticipated the influx of travelers.

At that point in time, I had no intention of attending Carnival. According to Nestor, Carnaval is basically one giant drunken fest and in some ways he was right (I had my fair share of beers, believe me!).

But Carnaval is about so much more than that! The more I thought about it, the more I realized what a once in a lifetime opportunity this was!~ What better cultural immersion experience than to experience first hand one of the biggest celebrations in all of Mexico!

So, with a group of girls from the EEE, we rented a room at La Galeria Plaza and booked some round trip bus tickets.

I am not entirely sure what my expectations were before we left, considering that the extent of my knowledge was based on Nestor's brief recommendation. I was basically looking to have a good time, meet new people, and get to know the girls from the EEE better. I can say with satisfaction that all that happened and more!

Although we had some speed bumps along the way, like sneaking girls into the hotel room (myself included) and warding off drunken advances from machismo assholes, I could not have asked for a better experience.

Our hotel was exquisite, easily the grandest hotel I have ever been in. I swear the sheets were Egyptian cotton! We also had a plethora of HOT water (my first decent shower since I got here) and a beautiful balcony looking out the cooling system (oooo, what a view O.o).

At the same time, we were semi-stalked by scary hotel security guards with walkie-talkies (who knew exactly who we were and what room we were in) and the room lacked some really basic amenities. For example, lamps. You wouldn't think to miss lamps until you are in a room with none. The only lamp in the room lacked light bulbs. What the heck?

Also, the night light next to the beds was apparently possessed by some little faery-daemon. It would flicker on and off all night long, at random intervals. It was slightly disconcerting.

Yet we weren't there to stay in the hotel, which was evident in the lack of sleep we all received. In reality, the party was out in the street, amongst the people. In the zocalo (centro) there was a grand stage set-up with bands, dancers, and small artisan markets. Although the real party didn't begin until after 11 every night, there were more than enough engaging things going on to keep us occupied!

During the day, I saw wonderful ethnic dancers, browsed home-made handcrafts, and listened to a grand variety of street musicians. At night, I danced and danced and danced! Near the zocalo each night was a neat little side concert, where I met many wonderful people and danced with many nice men.

I met Jorge and Michel, two kind-spirited guys from Mexico City who served as my protectors-of-sorts. They always intervened when some machismo guy would overwhelm me. I will never forget that wonderful feeling as I collapsed into bed each night, so completely depleted from a full day of experiencing life.

We were also near the boardwalk, which meant many wonderful trips to the ocean. Although we never actually made it to a beach, I greatly enjoyed many hours sitting on the cement wall and rocks alongside the boardwalk, doing nothing more than basking in the calm ocean breeze. It was absolutely beautiful.

On the other side of the cement barrier was a grand parade route, stretching along four miles of the ocean-lined boardwalk. Our final day in Veracruz was perfectly culminated by the grandiose parade that stretched out before us. Standing atop the cement barricade (the only free seat in the place), we spent hours enjoying costumed dancers, elaborate floats, and a variety of musical performances. It made me very happy, swaying back and forth in the warm ocean breeze to the music and movement of thousands of people.

Now THAT is Carnaval!