Naolinco

Yesterday I had a taste of home.

I went to Naolinco, a small pueblo about 45 minutes outside of Xalapa, with Rachel and Luis (my two best friends here in Mexico). The drive there was absolutely stunning. It was mid-morning/early afternoon and the mist was clinging to the hills. We drove up, down, over and around the countryside! We saw chickens, cows, goats, horses, burros, dogs, cats, and every other type of farm animal imaginable, all loitering along the side of the road. It was absolutely stunning. It would have been perfect if I hadn't gotten severely bus-sick. :S

The pueblo of Naolinco was breathtaking. It was a small intimate community (about 5000) with cute little houses, cobblestone streets, and a plethora of burros and horses. Like every other Mexican community, in the very center was an adorable Cathedral, Governor's office and public park. We walked all around town, checking out the sites.

Naolinco is known for its leather products. There are (literally) hundreds of little shops selling shoes, boots, purses, belts, keychains, cow tails, cow feet, and every other type of cow-skin based products. As a vegetarian who is trying to move away from using animal based products, I was not tempted to buy anything (to say the least). It was a rather charming community though.

Humorously, Naolinco is represented by a metal statue of a miserable looking cobbler making a shoe out of leather. He looks as though he stepped out of the story The Cobbler and the Elves, except the elves never came.

There are some wonderfully natural sites to be seen in Naolinco. My favorites are: The graveyard, las cascadas (the waterfalls), and the mirador (observation deck).

The graveyard was absolutely amazing! Every grave was set-up as an altar, with amazingly elaborate houses and ofrendas (offerings) honoring the dead. It made me very happy, being in the graveyard, to know how much these people are loved even in death. I believe that we need to respect and honor where we come from and the people who came before us. What more could any person ask for than to be loved so much that even in death they are honored and remembered. It is one of the many beautiful aspects of Mexican culture that I quite adore.

Naolinco is also known for its beautiful cascadas and mirador. The mirador is a neat observation deck/public park situated high up on the hill, overlooking the beauty of the valley and four cascadas. As the fog was as thick as pea soup, we were only able to take in the view of the two closest cascadas. Even from a distance though, we could still hear the rushing water as it cascaded down the falls. That, in combination with the cool clinging fog, made for quite a sensory banquet. It felt as though you could nearly reach out and touch it!

We were so intrigued, that even with the poor weather, Luis offered to take us down for a closer view. After a yummy lunch, we went down a neat little winding path that lead to an engorged stream and very rickety wood-plank bridge. Although Luis assured us that he had crossed the path before, many of the planks were broken and weak looking. There was also a sign posted warning away visitors and stating the land was now private property. Luis was very brave and crossed the bridge, but we thought better of continuing our journey past that point. Instead we walked along the stream until we came to a dam, overflowing with cold, polluted water. Although the naturaleza was breathtaking, the water was surprisingly filthy and stagnant. Afterward, we all felt cold and disgustingly filthy. Still, it was a heck of a lot of fun!

By the end of the day, we were all exhausted and more than ready to go home. But the funny thing is, it is the closest I have felt to home since I got here. Stumbling down the cobblestone streets and muddy rutted paths, I felt a half a continent away. There is something to be said about the countryside. Somethings never change. It felt good to be home.

Having a good day

Today was a good day.

It contained all the elements that make for excitement and adventure. There was danger, uncertainty, clarity, live music, ancient art, cute men, ugly men, freezing cold, blazing sunshine, and a nice dollop of fate to bring it all together. Just the way I like it!

My day began normally enough, with freezing rain and classes at the University. Having absolutely no desire to crawl out of bed, I lamented (yet again) the lack of hot water that is prevalent in this country. To say the least, I wished the Governor would think to cancel classes yet again. In retrospect, I am glad everything worked out the way it did. Days like today are worth both the good and the bad. I find you appreciate the good more that way.

After an uneventful (but educational) morning, I headed off to El Museo Antropologia for an informational tour on Olmeca culture. I can't explain it, but being around some of the oldest artifacts on Earth (and the oldest in Northern America) really got my blood racing. Being surrounded by 3000 year old history is indescribable. It makes you feel so insignificant and alive all at the same time. We are so mortal, yet capable of so much. It is mind boggling really.

Meanwhile, it went from 50 degrees, overcast and raining to high 70's, cloudless and the warmest sunshine I have felt yet! Racing from the Museum after my class, I hopped the first bus that was headed (relatively) in the right direction. Normally I take great care before getting on a bus, as I do not like to be lost. In my haste, I didn't even think to check which specific bus route I was on. The consequent trip was well worth the uncertainty.

Although I almost immediately regretted my hasty decision, I was soon amused by one of the many bus performers I have witnessed thus far. He was an older gentlemen with sagging facial features, who staggered quite a bit when he walked. I believe he was profusely inebriated. Propping himself against a seat, he pulled out a beautiful little guitar and began madly plucking away with his fingers. The combination of his sweet voice and plucky tune soon caught my attention. Completely fascinated, I spent the rest of the bus trip marveling at how different things are in Mexico. The performance was very commonplace, yet felt so fresh compared to how things are back home. I wish every day could be filled with the haphazard makings of a musical.

The neatest part is that these bus performers don't have to pay to take the bus! What a neat idea! They can catch a free ride anywhere and make a few coins along the way! Note to self: use this trick when in need of free transportation and a few coins in local currency.

After the old man hobbled off the bus, I looked out the window and realized I was completely lost. I wasn't on a bus route I had ever taken before and I didn't recognize any street names or distinguishing landmarks. I had a sense of the direction we were heading in, but I was completely disoriented. Then out of the corner of my eye I saw some graffiti that looked familiar (I have an odd passion for photographing graffiti, I consider it public art). Just then the bus stopped to drop off some passengers and on a whim, I exited with them. Looking up and down the street, I felt completely lost. Heading in the direction of the graffiti, I attempted to discern anything recognizable. Turning down the street where I saw the graffiti, I lucked out by discovering a side street near where I live. Utterly relieved, I made my way back to familiar terrain. In a city filled with graffiti, what are the odds of that?

Reassured, I raced back towards campus to meet Luis. I was already about 45 minutes late and my ill-thought-out bus trek had taken me well off the beaten path. Dashing across el Calle Moctezuma (a cute little cobblestone street a few blocks from my house), I just barely noticed a taxi barreling down the street in the opposite direction. Something about the taxi caught my attention and I cautiously slowed down. Although I was on the sidewalk and in no evident danger, something didn't feel right. Then all of a sudden *BAM!*. Jumping in fright, I looked back and saw that the taxi had slammed into a mini-van trying to cross el Calle Moctezuma, where I had been standing barely 15 seconds earlier.

With a racing heart, I didn't slow down to gawk. Rushing away from the accident, I passed a gaggle of construction workers who immediately began cat-calling. I don't understand why Mexican men think that the way to pick up an American girl is to start by calling her "gueda". I find it offensive. I can handle most comments and cat-calls, but that one really rankles me. I don't like being reminded of my "whiteness", even in a culture that values it.

Making it back to campus (better late than never, right?), I spent some time with Luis before heading home for la comida de media dia and tarea. Soaking up the sunshine on my balcony, I was distracted from my studying by a group of traveling street performers! They serenaded me from the street in front of my house. All together an exceedingly enjoyable experience.

By the end of the day, I can say with complete certainty, today was a good day!

Redefining Vegetarianism

Being a vegetarian in today's society is not always easy.

This is especially true in the United States. I come from a meat oriented society. We eat meat all day every day. It is in our fast food, on the shelves of countless grocery stores, and found in nearly every meal. As such, being a vegetarian means making the committed (and conscious) decision to deviate from the social norm.

As such, being a vegetarian in today's society is not always easy.

I have had my fair share of difficulties in the states in the past. Ranging from restaurants to dinner invitations, I have learned to cope with it it and make the best out of any given situation. However, I didn't anticipate having difficulties once I got to Mexico. I mean, I have been eating beans and rice for over five years now! I am in the land where corn and beans were originally domesticated. They are a common staple in every household! Who would expect being a vegetarian would be such an issue?

Truth be told, I am very fortunate. My mom is an excellent cook and makes me a wonderful variety of vegetarian delicacies every single day. Not only do I get to try a fair amount of new foods, but I am also constantly learning how to prepare them myself. I have even trained my mom to constantly keep beans, rice, tortillas, and queso de Oaxaca in the fridge. It is a vegetarian-dream-come-true.

I should have realized though, that things are not always this easy, especially considering the difficulties a friend experienced last time I visited Mexico. David was vegan and had the worst possible time trying to find food he could eat. Every time we went out together, we would spend hours walking up and down the streets asking every single restaurant if they served rice and beans. Fortunately, he operated under the "don't ask, don't tell" policy when it came to potential meat-based flavorings. Otherwise he would have probably starved to death...

Although I haven't had to struggle to find food (per se), I have had my fair share of difficulties here in Mexico. For one thing, my mom doesn't completely understand the concept of being vegetarian. Although I am not the first vegetarian she had had in the house, she has already cracked my resolve regarding lard, meat-based bouillons, fish, an seafood. I don't mind the seafood so much and the rest I just pretend isn't there.

Yet sometimes it seems as though she doesn't get it all. For example, during the welcoming party hosted by the EEE, she went out of her way to make me tortas de frijoles (bean sandwiches), to ensure that I would have something to eat at the party. Yet she made the decision to flavor it with chicken chorrizo (sausage). To say the least, I had to explain that chicken is NOT vegetarian.

It is not only her though. I have encountered quite a few people with similar mentalities regarding vegetarianism. Some, like Carmen, don't quite understand that vegetarian means no meat. They are always trying to come up with some sneaky to make meat "vegetarian friendly". Regardless of the presentation, meat is meat.

Then there are others who think that being vegetarian means you are a god-forsaken space alien from outer-space. As such, most respectable establishments don't offer "that type of food", when in reality, they usually do. I encounter this mentality nearly every time I step into a restaurant, as I always ask before being seated if they serve vegetarian options.

For example, walking into a local market yesterday, I asked the patrona of the first street-style restaurant whether she served vegetarian food. Clearly scandalized, she vehemently shook her head and said "claro que no!" With a sigh, I asked if any of the restaurants in the market served vegetarian options. Distressed, the women continued to shake her head, as she turned her back on me. Then, to my surprise, she opened a giant pot and began to stir the yummy looking rice inside. Next to the pot of rice was a pot of black beans. Next to the pot of black beans was a stack of tortillas. Really now?

Then again today, I experienced something similar at the Museo Antropologia. I had a bad reaction from my low blood sugar and had to eat something from the museum cafeteria. With a splitting headache and sharp pains in my belly, I asked the patrona if the restaurant offered any vegetarian options at all. Shaking her head, she iterated the now common-place response: "no". Needing to eat something, I all but begged for food, anything. "Tortillas? Queso?" The woman's face brightened, "Ah si! tenemos!" Placing an order of cheesy tortillas, the women shocked me by asking if I wanted beans with that. Then, to my amazement, she pointed to the menu and recommended I order antefrijoles. To those of who you don't know what antefrijoles are: four tortillas folded up and filled with beans, cheese, and crema; covered in beans, cheese, and crema. I still can't wrap my head around that one.

Then again, it isn't all bad. Although the majority of the gente don't seem to understand the definition of vegetarianism, I still manage to find food to eat. I have only really been plagued by one bad experience. During Carnaval, I could not find food to eat. For the first day and a half, I struggled to find cheese and tortillas. It wasn't until the third day that I found a restaurant that served beans and rice. I'll tell ya, after not eating adequately for three days, you learn to appreciate the simplicity of a plate of beans and rice. There is nothing more delicious in the world when you are starving.

When all is said and done, it has been an eye opening (and stomach filling) experience.

A Day of Domestication

Although I may not have done anything particularly fancy or exciting today, I feel as though I accomplished allot! My hands hurt, my back aches, and I am utterly exhausted.

Whenever I have free time I feel as though I should be doing something, especially on the weekend. Today was no different. The exception was that I realized I didn't need to go "out" in order to satisfy that feeling.

When I woke up, my mom was out in the courtyard washing laundry (as she is prone to do when it is sunny out). I had already planned on doing laundry today, when it occurred to me that I should take this opportunity to really immerse myself in the culture and "do as the natives do". Not that all Mexican women wash their laundry by hand, but it is allot more common here than back home. So, determined to try it out, I marched down to the local tienda and bought a bar of "Jabon de Zota".

I proceeded to spend the next two hours washing every article of clothing I own here (except for what I am wearing). It was utterly exhausting and oh so fulfilling! I had no idea what hard work it is to wash clothes using nothing more than a bucket of water, washboard, and bar of soap! Standing in the sunshine, soaked from the splashed water, I had a great deal of time to reflect on the mundane task of doing laundry. I have never really thought about it before.. I guess I always kind of took for granted the simplicity and convenience of washing machines. I mean, until recently, this is how it has been down. Imagine, generations of women (and men) washing not only their own clothes, but the clothes of their families! Hours on end, spent laboring to make sure their families have clean clothes to wear.

With that thought in mind, I would like to personally thank women everywhere for all the effort they put in (and have put in) to provide a better life for their families. Thank you so much!!! Without you, we wouldn't have the conveniences of modern technology or clean laundry.

Think about it, next time you throw a load of laundry into the washing machine.

Rain rain go away, come again another day!

It has been rainy, wet, and cold for over eight days straight now!

I knew this was Xalapa's rainy season, but I didn't actually anticipate days on end of rain. Fortunately, the sun came out about ten minutes ago! Yay!! Then it disappeared again. Still, there is hope!~

The dreary rain brought on a spell of homesickness yesterday. I was home alone for the better part of the day and it really struck me that I am alone here... It was a really bad feeling. My heart hurt in a way it has never hurt before. I didn't like it. I guess I always kind of assumed I would be the exception to the culture shock rule. Fortunately, I got lots of lovin's from home via facebook, which really picked me up. Thank goodness for technology!

Plus I am not really alone here. I have Luis and Carmen. Luis is like the brother I never had, he is my home away from home. Carmen is equally amazing. Yesterday she made me the most delicious vegetarian tamales I have EVER had in my entire life! I am lucky to have them both in my life!

The cure for homesick: fresh vegetarian tamales, a cup of mint tea, and a hug. :)

With any luck, that will have been the worst of it. Espero que si!

Carnaval!

This past weekend I spent celebrating a time honored tradition: La celebracion de Carnaval!

Although Carnaval is loosely based on religious practices, it has come to symbolize something far grander: the coolest party of all time.

Carnaval is an eight day long celebration before lent begins and I have been told that Veracruz is the place to be during that time.

I first learned of Carnaval from my bus driver Nestor, when I arrived in Veracruz two Sunday's ago. The city was already making preparations for the fiesta, as rows of bleachers were being assembled along the boardwalk for the parade and businesses anticipated the influx of travelers.

At that point in time, I had no intention of attending Carnival. According to Nestor, Carnaval is basically one giant drunken fest and in some ways he was right (I had my fair share of beers, believe me!).

But Carnaval is about so much more than that! The more I thought about it, the more I realized what a once in a lifetime opportunity this was!~ What better cultural immersion experience than to experience first hand one of the biggest celebrations in all of Mexico!

So, with a group of girls from the EEE, we rented a room at La Galeria Plaza and booked some round trip bus tickets.

I am not entirely sure what my expectations were before we left, considering that the extent of my knowledge was based on Nestor's brief recommendation. I was basically looking to have a good time, meet new people, and get to know the girls from the EEE better. I can say with satisfaction that all that happened and more!

Although we had some speed bumps along the way, like sneaking girls into the hotel room (myself included) and warding off drunken advances from machismo assholes, I could not have asked for a better experience.

Our hotel was exquisite, easily the grandest hotel I have ever been in. I swear the sheets were Egyptian cotton! We also had a plethora of HOT water (my first decent shower since I got here) and a beautiful balcony looking out the cooling system (oooo, what a view O.o).

At the same time, we were semi-stalked by scary hotel security guards with walkie-talkies (who knew exactly who we were and what room we were in) and the room lacked some really basic amenities. For example, lamps. You wouldn't think to miss lamps until you are in a room with none. The only lamp in the room lacked light bulbs. What the heck?

Also, the night light next to the beds was apparently possessed by some little faery-daemon. It would flicker on and off all night long, at random intervals. It was slightly disconcerting.

Yet we weren't there to stay in the hotel, which was evident in the lack of sleep we all received. In reality, the party was out in the street, amongst the people. In the zocalo (centro) there was a grand stage set-up with bands, dancers, and small artisan markets. Although the real party didn't begin until after 11 every night, there were more than enough engaging things going on to keep us occupied!

During the day, I saw wonderful ethnic dancers, browsed home-made handcrafts, and listened to a grand variety of street musicians. At night, I danced and danced and danced! Near the zocalo each night was a neat little side concert, where I met many wonderful people and danced with many nice men.

I met Jorge and Michel, two kind-spirited guys from Mexico City who served as my protectors-of-sorts. They always intervened when some machismo guy would overwhelm me. I will never forget that wonderful feeling as I collapsed into bed each night, so completely depleted from a full day of experiencing life.

We were also near the boardwalk, which meant many wonderful trips to the ocean. Although we never actually made it to a beach, I greatly enjoyed many hours sitting on the cement wall and rocks alongside the boardwalk, doing nothing more than basking in the calm ocean breeze. It was absolutely beautiful.

On the other side of the cement barrier was a grand parade route, stretching along four miles of the ocean-lined boardwalk. Our final day in Veracruz was perfectly culminated by the grandiose parade that stretched out before us. Standing atop the cement barricade (the only free seat in the place), we spent hours enjoying costumed dancers, elaborate floats, and a variety of musical performances. It made me very happy, swaying back and forth in the warm ocean breeze to the music and movement of thousands of people.

Now THAT is Carnaval!

My home away from home

I am loving my new home!

Not only am I making lots of new friends, but my home life is absolutely amazing. I get my own private room which includes a huge closet, LOTS of storage space, and a private balcony! It is perfect for taking siestas in the sunshine after la comida de media dia (the equivalency of lunch).

I was also very fortunate with the selection of my family. My host mom (Carmen)is absolutely amazing. I live alone with her (all her children are grown and gone), which is actually really nice. We have spent hours on end talking about everything. I am learning so much from her; ranging from new recitas (recipes) to new vocabulary. It should come as no surprise that nearly all my new words are food related. :)

Yesterday I had the pleasure of meeting her daughter Marie Carmen and granddaughter over la comida de media dia. I can tell that their family is really close, which is comforting. I miss my own family enough, that it feels good to be around someone elses.

I also made some new Mexicano friends already! Luis (my cultural assistant) introduced me to some of his girlfriends here. We went out last night and had a blast! Over beers and pizza I learned that college students are the same EVERYWHERE. The things we talked about were surprisingly... normal. There was lots of teasing and laughter as the girls taught me "essential vocabulary" for surviving in Mexico. It should come as no surprise that the word at the top of the list of "chug" in Spanish. They are planning a party for me next week. I can't wait.

I will admit, it was difficult at times. I could not understand everything they said, which made me feel weird. It was mostly the slang that confused me, but it reminded me of something a friend once told me. She was an international student studying for a year in Oakfield, and after six months of friendship she admitted that when we first met, she couldn't understand a word I said. She admitted that she used to nod her head in agreement, even when she had no idea what I was saying. After last night, I understand COMPLETELY. It is no fun to constantly ask for clarification. It is better to go with the flow, have another beer, and try to have a good time.

So that is the plan! Especially for this upcoming weekend. I am planning a three day excursion with some new friends to Veracruz for Carnival! I may not be Christian, but I sure as heck will enjoy the celebration!

Meanwhile, the adventure continues!

What it means to be an international student

I have known quite a few international students over the course of my lifetime, but I had no clue as to what it is all about.

In the past, I thought being an international student was about learning first-hand the differences of other cultures. Yet what I experienced today, although not all together normal for me, seems like it would be a totally common experience for any international student studying in Xalapa.

I was concerned about making friends, but I should not have been. I was correct in my first assumption that the other girls from UW-LAX are not really friend material. Instead, I met many other interesting people, both local and international!

I met Luis (my campus buddy) and he is amazing! After an uneventful bus tour of the city, he and I went on an intensive exploratory walk all around el Centro (the center of the city where all the coolest things occur). It feels like I learned more about Mexico in the three hours I spent with him, than I have from three years of studying at the University.

He is every bit a gentleman and has sworn to be "mi mejor amigo de Xalapa". He even jokes that if I spend enough time with him, I will eventually turn into a "Jalapeno" (the equivalency of being a Wisconsinite).

I also met many interesting characters through la EEE (Escuela para Estudiantes Extranjeros). The neatest thus far are Henry and Elis.

Henry is from Belgium and I can't understand barely a word he says (in English or Spanish). He was the first friendly person I met at the EEE, even with the language barrier. He seems very adventurous, even though his program through rotary restricts him from "having fun". He is also very knowledgeable about Xalapa, as he has been living here for six months already.

Elis utterly fascinates me. She is from North Carolina and she is interested in art, Spanish, music, and maps. I find that combination odd, but intriguing. I have a feeling we will be spending a great deal of time together in the future.

The best part was when a whole group of us (Mexicanos y EEE students) went out after our placement test for a celebratory drink. It was the first legal drink for many of my companeros, to everyone's amusement (or maybe just mine). Sitting around the table, telling funny/bad stories of where we come from was the best. I even tried flavored tobacco from Henry's hookah! And the our new local friends offered to throw us a Welcoming party soon.

Sounds like more good times are to come.

Being an international student rocks!

"Bobo, I don't think we're in Wisconsin anymore..."

Although I have always lived by the age-old adage that there is no place like home, I realized today that home is what you make of it, regardless of physical location.

It was really hard to say goodbye. It was even worse to walk away. Yet once I over-came that initial anxiety, moving forward was the easiest thing to do.

Now, I find myself half-way across North America, and surprisingly, comfortable. I have Bobo (Bart's stuffed ram) to keep me company at night, an amazing (and private!) room, free internet access at all times, and people from across the continent sending me lovin's.

What more could anyone ask for?

In truth, I consider myself VERY fortunate to be here today. My host mother is absolutely amazing!

We share many common interests; including a love of cheese products, drinking a warm cup of tea before bed, celebrating the joy of having a loving family, the delights of gardening, and sharing recipes.

To top off the day, we shared a moment over 12 blossom tea and homemade Quesadillas de Queso de Oaxaca (the BEST cheese in the WORLD) y fresh avocado slices.

Oh, there's no place like home. :)

Facebook Friends

I am very excited!

It seems the beginning of my trip has already begun. Today my "cultural assistant" Luis (which is really just a fancy title for "campus buddy") sent me a facebook message!* It was such a wonderful surprise, that we immediately began connecting via facebook chat. From the sounds of it, we share a number of similar interests! The neatest part is that he is as fascinated by U.S. culture as I am by Mexican culture.

I am so delighted that Luis sent me a personal message! I have been a little nervous about not knowing anyone and making new friends, yet Luis helped to ease my nerves.

I hope that our friendship is the first of many new relationships!

*Hola Ana! Me da mucho gusto el saber que vendrás a vivir este semestre a esta hermosa ciudad de Xalapa :-).Mi nombre es Luis Daniel y seré tu asistente cultural durante tu estancia en Xalapa. La escuela para estudiantes extranjeros me ah asignado como tu tutor para ayudarte en lo que necesites en México pero también quiero que sepas que el objetivo de este programa no es el de ser como un tutor o algún maestro, sino el que tu y yo seamos amigos y que aprendas tanto de mi cultura como del idioma. Yo eh trabajado como tutor de estudiantes por mas de 5 años y eh aprendido mucho de tu cultura por eso pienso que no sera difícil que tu y yo seamos buenos amigos :-)

Si tienes alguna duda sobre xalapa no dudes en preguntarme, If you have problems with Spanish don't worry I speak English and I understand it very well so we can talk in both ways if it's necessary. I won't tell you more things about me until we meet the next Monday in the orientation session and don't worry I'll be there and we will be able to speak more in Spanish and don't be afraid that you won't learn spanish with me because I won't speak english with you unless that you want to ;-)

Espero que tengas un muy buen viaje y nos vemos pronto.

Welcome to Xalapa! Bienvenida a Xalapa!